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Wainwright's Eastern Fells

Book One of Wainwright's Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells covers the Eastern Fells, an area which includes the Helvellyn and Fairfield ranges. It was first published in 1955.

Each of the guides has a dedication:

Book One is dedicated to THE MEN OF THE ORDNANCE SURVEY, whose maps of Lakeland have given me much pleasure, both on the fells and by my fireside.

 

The Eastern Fells • 1

THE LAKE DISTRICT - CLICK ON ANY AREA FOR LINK

ARNISON CRAG
Height: 1422', (433m)
Grid Ref: NY 394150

Though of modest elevation, the rocky summit of Arnison Crag is one of the best in the Eastern Fells, with good views overlooking Patterdale. Though the fell could be hazardous in mist, its low altitude usually ensures good visibility on days when the higher tops are lost in the clouds.

Wainwright did not suggest any ridge routes from Arnison Crag to other fells, but the summits of Birks and St Sunday Crag can be reached with a little effort. To reach Birks, descend SW to Trough Head, then climb the steep slope east, following a broken wall. There's about 700 feet of ascent.

BIRKHOUSE MOOR
Height: 2356', (718m)
Grid Ref: NY 364160

Birkhouse Moor is an outlier of Helvellyn, being a continuation of the Striding Edge ridge. Most people reach the summit when approaching Striding Edge from Glenridding, as this route follows a wall which crosses the highest point of the fell, (just after it bends south west). The more prominent cairn lies a little to the north, however, past a few small tarns. The wall continues to a depression just before Striding Edge, where it meets the path coming up from Patterdale at a gap in the wall (it's actually referred to on the OS map as Hole-in the-Wall). On bank holidays the queues for Striding Edge start here. The summit of Birkhouse Moor is as broad and grassy as its name suggests, quite unlike Striding Edge.

On the eastern slopes of Birkhouse Moor lies Lanty's Tarn, hidden amongst birch and pine trees, just below the minor top of Keldas (1029').

Birkhouse Moor

Birkhouse Moor from Gillside campsite, Glenridding

BIRKS
Height: 2040', (622m)
Grid Ref: NY 380143

It's unlikely that Birks is ever climbed for its own sake, as it is in reality little more than a minor hump on the NE ridge of St Sunday Crag, and the summit is usually crossed by walkers aiming for the parent fell.

CATSTYCAM
Height: 2919', (890m)
Grid Ref: NY 348158

From almost every direction, Catstycam is easily identifiable, a shapely pyramid rising steeply on all sides. The summit is one of the finest in the district, most of its neighbours being topped by broad plateaux. The most popular ascent is to climb Helvellyn via Striding Edge, then continue over Swirral Edge to the summit of Catstycam, effectively a high level circuit of Red Tarn. A quieter route on busy days is to climb the NW ridge from the disused dam in Keppel Cove; there is a path but it's very steep. The route can be then continued on to Helvellyn over Swirral Edge.

Catstycam

Catstycam, with Swirral Edge on the right and the north west ridge on the left.

CLOUGH HEAD
Height: 2381', (726m)
Grid Ref: NY 334226

Clough Head rises from Threlkeld Common, the large moorland seen to the south of the A66 as it heads towards Keswick past Blencathra. The fell is the most northerly of a group of hills known as the Dodds, which extend south to the Sticks Pass, from where the ridge can be followed as far as Ambleside, crossing the Helvellyn and Fairfield ranges en route. The northern slopes of Clough Head are crossed by the Old Coach Road, which presents the easiest approach from the west. The gentle gradients make this the most practical approach for anyone backpacking the ridge. There are several scrambling routes with varying degrees of difficulty taking more direct routes from the west.

The summit of the fell has a small windshelter built up against the trig pillar, and there are excellent views from here, particularly of Blencathra. To the north west of the summit the fell drops steeply into a hollow, then broadens into the shoulder of Threlkeld Knotts, with its own minor top (1686' / 514m). To the south of the summit a path leads to a prominent rocky knoll, Calfhow Pike, before ascending south east to Great Dodd, the highest fell in this range.

Clough Head

The summit of Clough Head looking to Blencathra

DOLLYWAGON PIKE
Height: 2815', (858m)
Grid Ref: NY 346131

Dollywagon Pike follows the general pattern of the other mountains of the Helvellyn range. The western slopes above Thirlmere, known as Willie Wife Moor, are typically broad and grassy. In sharp contrast, the eastern flank is made up of rough crags buttressed by a narrow ridge. In fact, this north east ridge, known as the Tongue, is the finest approach to the top. It can be followed straight to the summit from Ruthwaite Lodge in Grisedale. (Nethermost Pike to the north has an almost identical ridge approach running parallel, as does Helvellyn). The Tongue separates the two hanging valleys of Ruthwaite Cove and Cock Cove, cul-de-sac corries which almost define the term 'being off the beaten track'. On several visits I've not seen anyone there.

The more usual eastern approach to Dollywagon Pike is made by walking up Grisedale as far as the tarn, from where a rough path rises a thousand feet before levelling off near the remains of an old boundary fence. It's worth remembering that the main destination of the path is Helvellyn, so it bypasses the highest point of Dollywagon Pike. However, in bad visibility the old fence poles can be followed north to the summit cairn, though care should be taken due to the nearby crags.

DOVE CRAG
Height: 2598', (792m)
Grid Ref: NY 375105

When A.W. Wainwright sat down to draw the first page of his Lakeland Guides on 9th November 1952 (a task which would occupy the next fourteen years), he chose to start with the ascent of Dove Crag from Ambleside. This route is climbed by thousands of people every year, though usually they carry on along the ridge to Fairfield.

The most interesting approach, however, is from the eastern valley of Dovedale. The name Dove Crag more properly refers to the crag situated north east of the broad featureless summit. From its base, a short scramble leads to the Priest's Hole, a natural cave with extra protection provided by a wall. It's a popular bivouac spot, particularly with rock climbers - there's even a guest book! (For more information on the cave, see the Over Fairfield and Helvellyn page in Trip Reports).

Dove Crag

Dove Crag. The cave can be seen near
the top of the crag

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