Wild Camping • 4
WHY WILD CAMPING? • LEGALITIES • CHOOSING A CAMP SITE • LEAVING A SUPPLY CACHE • SAFETY • RUCKSACK • TENT • BIVVY BAG • SLEEPING BAG • SLEEPING MAT • CLOTHES • BOOTS • COOKING EQUIPMENT • WATER CONTAINERS • FOOD • NAVIGATION • LIGHTING • UTILITIES • FIRST AID • LUXURIES
CLOTHES
In my early days I'd just pack a load of T-shirts and a spare pair of jeans and I was ready. I used to think a lot of the walking clothes were a bit overpriced for what it was, and I still think in some cases you're paying for the name. However, price apart, I believe it's worth having clothes made out of the right materials. The most efficient system of clothing is to wear layers which can be put on or taken off as conditions change. Conventionally, there are three layers:
THE INNER LAYER - Sometimes called the base layer, in summer this may be all that needs to be worn on a walk, though all layers should be carried.
- SHIRT - A synthetic shirt made out of material such as Polartec will be lighter and less bulky than the same in cotton, it dries quickly, and it will wick moisture produced by body heat away from the skin.
- TROUSERS - The layer system is not as rigidly followed when applied to the legs. Outside of winter, a light pair of trousers made from a quick drying material is usually enough, (Ron Hill Tracksters and Rohan Bags are popular examples). In winter an inner layer of 'longjohns' (available in a wicking material such as Polartaec), can be worn under a heavier mid layer, (such as fleece leggings). In summer shorts are an obvious choice, though it's always worth carrying long trousers.
THE MID LAYER - The second layer helps to keep the heat in, but will also provide some protection from the weather. This may be all that is needed on a mild winter's day, though a waterproof jacket at least should be carried.
- FLEECE - The fleece has pretty much replaced the old woolly jumper as the main article of mid wear. Worn over the base layer, the fleece continues to wick moisture through the fibres until it reaches the air where it can evaporate.
From the camping viewpoint, the fleece packs down smaller than a jumper, and will dry quicker should it get wet.THE OUTER LAYER - The outer layer is essentially the weatherproof part of the layer system. It's often not needed in dry weather, though the jacket at least should always be carried.
- JACKET - A breathable waterproof jacket is necessary. This forms the outer shell in a layer system. It should allow the moisture wicked by the inner layers through to the outside air, whilst blocking rain. (The weave in Gore-tex, the most common of these breathable waterproof fabrics, is about twenty times smaller than the tiniest droplet of water, yet will allow hundreds of water vapour molecules to pass through it).
- OVERTROUSERS - Essentially, these continue the outer layer to the lower half of the body, and they can be obtained in the same breathable materials as the jackets, with prices to match. However, I find that wearing them can become tiresome, and only walk in them in periods of heavy rain. (It's worth remembering that even with waterproof boots and socks, its not uncommon to end up with wet feet because the modern wicking materials can draw water down wet trousers into the socks!) For me, overtrousers are most useful when putting up or taking down a tent in bad weather.
- GAITERS - If worn, gaiters can be effective at keeping rain and snow out of your boots, but like overtrousers, they can be annoying for general walking.
As can be seen, the layer system is not an absolutely rigid scheme, but it can be quite effective at keeping you warm, dry and comfortable,
MISCELLANEOUS
- SOCKS - Theoretically, you can't take too many socks when you go backpacking. In practice, on a short trip I take a pair for each day plus two spare pair. One of the spare pair is reserved for in the tent - they come off if I have to go outside and it's wet. I take a pair of slip-on pumps for wearing round the camp because they're easier to slip no and off as needed.
- PUMPS - I always take a compact pair of slip-on deck shoes for around camp - it saves pulling boots on and off when I want to go outside the tent to fetch water or adjust a guyline or something. (This has the added advantage of doing less damage to the immediate area around the camp).
- GLOVES - It can be bitterly cold on a summit ridge, even in summer, and a pair of gloved is always worth carrying. There are two options. My preference is to carry a pair of lightweight gloves made from a technical material such as Polartec (which will still stay warm when wet). These can be worn under a pair of waterproof mitts, which can be removed to do any small jobs where finger dexterity is needed. The other option is to wear something along the lines of the waterproof ski-gloves, (though they offer less dexterity for fiddly jobs).
BOOTS
There is a huge choice of boots available which are suitable for backpacking purposes. On mountain terrain, a good pair of hillwalking boots are necessary as good grip and support is essential when carrying a heavy weight. Trainers are an absolute no-no.
Weight is an important consideration, but modern leather boots with Vibram soles are much lighter than the traditional nailed boots used a few decades back. Army surplus stores sell boots quite cheaply which are often structurally sound for mountainous terrain, though they are usually quite heavy. Don't forget that besides the weight on your back, you have to lift the weight on your feet throughout the day. Lifting the 2 kg weight of the army surplus boots with the feet will be many times more energy-consuming than carrying the equivalent weight on the shoulders. (My own preference is for the popular Brasher Hillmaster GTX boot, which is made of a very light leather lined with Gore-tex, weighing in at 480g per boot. The light sole does have the disadvantage of wearing down quicker than some heavier boots; however, they can be resoled inexpensively).
Fabric boots made of breathable waterproof materials are very popular. These are much lighter than leather boots, which make them particularly useful for backpacking. They are, however, unsuitable for winter walking.
MAINTENANCE - After a trip, it's always a good idea to clean the boots of any excess mud, then let them dry overnight (never too close to a direct heat source). Once clean and dry, leather boots should be waxed. Besides enhancing its waterproofing properties, waxing feeds the leather and maintains its life and suppleness. I also like to give the boots a polishing with normal brown shoe polish just before a trip. For fabric boots, there are silicone sprays available which help maintain the water repelling properties of the material.
COOKING EQUIPMENT
There are many cooking systems on the market. For me the best choice is a propane/butane gas stove which packs down into a bag about the size of a tennis ball. (Mine is made by Coleman; the Camping Gaz versions are also popular). The resealable fuel cartridge lasts about 2 nights and maybe an extra morning. Sometimes I carry a half size cartridge as a backup. I usually make do with two small pans which can be nested one inside the other with a fuel cartridge inside.
WATER CONTAINERS
I usually carry a pair of 2-litre Platypus water carriers. They're very strong - I've had mine for about two years and have had no problems. They weigh next to nothing and roll up easily. They can be frozen, and hold boiling water (I've used the 1-litre version as a hot water bottle on a winter camp). There are other similar water carriers but the one's I've tried have either developed leaks or discoloured, even affecting the taste of the water.
FOOD
For the backpacker, food is fuel. You are trying to balance weight and bulk against calories. Taking the fuel analogy a little further, just like you'd fill the car with petrol before a long journey, by eating a big meal the night before a trip and then a big breakfast on the day you leave (with snacks along the way), you're fully fuelled at the beginning of the journey and can save on a little weight.
For breakfast I usually have cereal and eggs. Muesli is very nutritious for it's bulk and each daily serving can be packed in it's own sealable bag. (The sealable sandwich bags are useful for all kinds of purposes and I always carry a few extra in my utilities bag). Eggs can be carried in special egg containers, or even broken and poured into a small plastic jar if you don't eat them boiled. They can then be poured out as you need them. Occasionally I take some tinned kippers as a change from the eggs. These can be ate cold or boiled in the tin, and they're not too heavy or bulky.
Breakfast cooked on a campfire
During the day while I'm walking I'll have various snacks. Sandwiches are nice, though I don't have them often because carrying bread is impractical when backpacking. Instead I take cheese and crackers. I've managed to find some crackers which are round and fit perfectly in a Pringles can - a half size Pringles can with crackers will last me a couple of days (I usually have some as a late supper in the tent as well). It's probably a good idea to wrap the can with duct tape to waterproof it. I wrap a block of cheese up in cling film and take that with me too. Some people take cheese that you can get in a tube but I don't bother with it myself. Those little cheese samples that you get in the supermarket are handy though, especially the ones covered in wax, which helps keep them fresh. I don't usually take butter or margarine, but it's nice to have some if I've got the chance to use bread, Another handy snack would be a tin of sardines, tuna, mackerel fillets or something like that. Tinned fish is quite high in protein and doesn't take up much weight. Other snacks - biscuits are great if they're the flat unbreakable kind (Penguin, Rocky, etc). In winter I sometimes carry a flask which I can fill with soup in the morning.
Water is usually plentiful when in mountainous regions, except, of course, when you're walking along a ridge. After a couple of days, drinking just water is a little bland so I add some flavouring, such as powdered orange juice. In fact I go one step further and make my own energy drinks (much cheaper then the commercially available ones). You just mix a tablespoon each of orange juice powder, glucose and sucrose, plus a tiny pinch of salt, and then pack the mixture into a bank coin bag. Add this to a half litre of water and you've got your own energy drink.
Once I'm camped, it's not long before I start on the main meal of the day. Occasionally I'll cook a curry or a bolognese sauce before the trip and freeze it - this will get me through the first two nights if I'm camping alone. It's a little heavier than dried food though. Boiling rice and spaghetti can use a fair amount of fuel. However Uncle Ben's Express Rice cooks in two minutes with a tablespoon of water, which makes it very convenient for the backpacker. There's enough for two servings. There are various backpacking foods available commercially, though I find them overpriced and not very appetising. Much better are something like the Vesta dried meals which are very light. They take a bit long to cook - use express rice.
WHY WILD CAMPING? • LEGALITIES • CHOOSING A CAMP SITE • LEAVING A SUPPLY CACHE • SAFETY • RUCKSACK • TENT • BIVVY BAG • SLEEPING BAG • SLEEPING MAT • CLOTHES • BOOTS • COOKING EQUIPMENT • WATER CONTAINERS • FOOD • NAVIGATION • LIGHTING • UTILITIES • FIRST AID • LUXURIES
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